One of the few genuinely French restaurants in Dublin, Les Fréres Jacques opened beside the Olympia Theatre in 1986, well before the development of Temple Bar made the area fashionable. Most of the staff are French, the atmosphere is French - and the cooking is classic French.

The decor is soothing - all the better to enjoy seasonal menus that are wide-ranging and well-balanced but - as expected when you notice the lobster tank on entering - there is a strong emphasis on fish and seafood; game also features in season, although there will always be prime meats and poultry also.

Lunch at Les Fréres Jacques is a treat (and good value) but dinner is a feast. The á la carte offers classics such as west coast oysters (native or rock) and grilled lobster, individually priced, and probably game in season.

Finish with cheeses (perhaps including some Irish ones) or a classic dessert like warm thin apple tart (baked to order), with cinnamon ice cream and créme anglaise.

The wine list naturally favours France and makes interesting reading.

Reservation recommended; children welcome. Seats 65 (private room, 40)  SC 12.5%. Pianist on Fri/Sat nights.

 Closed L Sat, all Sun, 24 Dec-3 Jan. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser

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